Hinglaj Mata Temple, Balochistan – Hinglaj Yatra

Hinglaj Mata Temple, Balochistan – Hinglaj Yatra

Hinglaj Yatra is also called as Nani ki Haj by local Muslims. The area is extremely arid and the pilgrimage takes place before summer. Pilgrimage to the site is traditionally begun from the Nanad Panthi Akhada in Karachi. The pilgrim groups are headed by a holy staff bearer called the chaadiar, authorized by the Akhada (a Hindu organization of sadhus). The sadhus (holy-men) belonging to this group are a very cohesive group of Hata yogis with ancestral genealogy of their own; and they also observe secret rites.

Historically few could make the taxing journey to Hinglaj—a gruelling trek across more than 160 miles of isolated desert to the temple. But in recent years, new infrastructure has allowed an unprecedented number of pilgrims to enter the site, altering centuries-old rituals. Many pilgrims believe that Hinglaj’s temple may only be entered only after climbing the Chandragup and Khandewari mud volcanoes.

Chandrakup means Moon Well. It is considered as Asia's largest mud volcano. It is considered holy and is addressed as 'Baba Chandrakup' (literally Father Moon well). The volcano is filled with mud, instead of magma, hence the term "mud volcano". It is considered to be the abode of demigod Babhaknath. It is one of the few sites of active volcanic activity in the Asian mainland. The mud is semi fluid and sometimes it spills over and aggregates and cools into hillocks which surround the site.

Pilgrims stay up all night at the base of the volcano making Rotis which are offered to the volcano. The activity is considered to be very holy. The ingredients, flour, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, sugar are mixed on a cloth which is held at all times at four corners by pilgrims. This is done to ensure that it never touches the ground. The prepared Rotis are covered with wood. At daybreak, the Rotis are carried by the pilgrims and priests to the mouth of the crater.

A Chadi or Wooden Trident is planted near the edge of the crater and offerings of incense and cannabis are made along with recitation of 'mantras'. The Rotis are then torn up and cast into the crater. After this ritual every pilgrim is asked to confess his sins and ask for forgiveness. According to the bubbling of the mud and the reaction of the wind, the charidar is able to tell if the pilgrim’s sins are forgiven.

Anyone who refuses or hesitates to confess to his or her sins is ostracised and abandoned by the party. After the confession, the party proceeds with the permission of 'Baba Chandrakup'. The pilgrims are led by priests or caretakers of the shrine through the desert. They hold a wooden trident in their hands. The trident or Trishula is the weapon of Lord Shiva and hence is associated with the Sati too. Since they hold the trident during the trip, they are called 'Chhadidaars' (those who hold the stick or chhadi).

The Chhadi is draped with saffron, red or pink coloured fabrics. The priests give a saffron cloth to every pilgrim and an oath is taken that each would help the other. However, they are warned not to share their personal stores of water. This act is deemed to be a sort of fast and penance necessary for the journey. Pilgrims from all over Pakistan and even India visit the temple, holding traditional red banners and wearing red-gold decorative head-scarves.

Before the independence of India and Pakistan in 1947, the region constituting present-day Pakistan had 14% Hindu and Sikh population, which fell to 1.6% or about 3 million due to migration of 6 million Hindus and Sikhs to India. Of these, nearly 2.3 million Hindus, the largest concentration is in a single district: Tharparkar District (Thar) district of Sindh Province. They form the largest contingent of pilgrims to Hinglaj Mata Temple.

They include merchants, government servants, but the majority are the lower-class Hindus, serving as bonded labourers and farm workers. The costumes of these folks from rural Pakistan are most colourful. Their women dress in heavily embroidered clothes with bangles adorning their wrists. For Thari children employed as bonded labour, this is a one-time fun time. The pilgrims include middle-class Hindus, especially from nearby Karachi, which is a stop on the pilgrimage route to Hinglaj.

The pilgrimage serves as meeting point for places and doing community activity like gathering funds for construction of a Hindu temple. Hundreds of volunteers help in the organization. Diesel generators are installed. Vast community kitchens are set up to cook food prepared with tonnes of food stuff such as wheat flour, rice, lentils, and vegetables supplied by local people to feed the pilgrims. Three meals are prepared. Temporary bathroom facilities and camps are installed.

On the path to the shrine are situated wells which are guarded by the local tribesmen. Feuds over water, a scarce commodity, is common in the area. The tribesmen are offered food consisting primarily of Roti (circular flat disks of baked flour) in lieu of water. The pilgrimage continues for another four to five days after leaving Chandrakup. The final stop is a small village with wooden houses. It is home to the caretakers of the shrine and Baluch tribesmen who revere the deity even though they are Muslims. Before entering the shrine, the pilgrims bathe in the Hingol River (also called the Aghore River).

The shrine is situated on the mountain on the other bank of the river. The pilgrims bathe and visit the shrine in their wet clothes. The annual four-day pilgrimage to the Hinglaj Mata Temple is in April. The major ceremony in the pilgrimage occurs on the third day, when the priests of the shrine recite mantras to invoke the gods to accept the offerings brought by the pilgrims, and bless them. Offerings made by the pilgrims to the deity primarily consist of three coconuts. While some remain in Hinglaj for all four days, others make a short day trip.

The Journey was around 160 miles by foot through the desert in olden days. The Journey is now made easy by the Makran Coastal Highway connecting Karachi with Gwadar. Hinglaj is nearly 4 hours drive from Karachi on the Makran Coastal Highway. Consequently, the number of pilgrims visiting the shrine has substantially increased over the years. While most pilgrims come by buses or private cars, a few cycles their way to the shrine, as it is believed that more the austerities, the more is the grace of the deity.