Hinglaj Mata Temple,
Balochistan – Hinglaj Yatra
Hinglaj Yatra is also called as Nani ki Haj by local
Muslims. The area is extremely arid and the pilgrimage takes
place before summer. Pilgrimage to the site is traditionally begun from
the Nanad Panthi Akhada in Karachi.
The pilgrim groups are headed by a holy staff bearer called the chaadiar,
authorized by the Akhada (a Hindu organization of sadhus).
The sadhus
(holy-men) belonging to this group are a very cohesive group of Hata
yogis with ancestral genealogy of their own; and they also
observe secret rites.
Historically few could make the taxing journey to
Hinglaj—a gruelling trek across more than 160 miles of isolated desert to the
temple. But in recent years, new infrastructure has allowed an unprecedented
number of pilgrims to enter the site, altering centuries-old rituals. Many
pilgrims believe that Hinglaj’s temple may only be entered only after climbing
the Chandragup
and Khandewari mud volcanoes.
Chandrakup means Moon Well. It is considered as Asia's largest
mud volcano. It is considered holy and is addressed as 'Baba Chandrakup' (literally Father
Moon well). The volcano is filled with mud, instead of magma, hence
the term "mud volcano". It is considered to be the abode of demigod
Babhaknath. It is one of the few sites of active volcanic activity in the Asian
mainland. The mud is semi fluid and sometimes it spills over and aggregates and
cools into hillocks which surround the site.
Pilgrims stay up all night at the base of the volcano
making Rotis which are offered to the volcano. The activity is considered to be
very holy. The ingredients, flour, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, sugar are
mixed on a cloth which is held at all times at four corners by pilgrims. This
is done to ensure that it never touches the ground. The prepared Rotis are
covered with wood. At daybreak, the Rotis are carried by the pilgrims and
priests to the mouth of the crater.
A Chadi or Wooden Trident is
planted near the edge of the crater and offerings of incense and cannabis are
made along with recitation of 'mantras'. The Rotis are then torn up and cast
into the crater. After this ritual every pilgrim is asked to confess his sins
and ask for forgiveness. According to the bubbling of the mud and the reaction
of the wind, the charidar is able to tell if the pilgrim’s sins are forgiven.
Anyone who refuses or hesitates to confess to his or her
sins is ostracised and abandoned by the party. After the confession, the party
proceeds with the permission of 'Baba Chandrakup'. The pilgrims are led by
priests or caretakers of the shrine through the desert. They hold a wooden
trident in their hands. The trident or Trishula
is the weapon of Lord Shiva and hence is associated with the
Sati too. Since they hold the trident during the trip, they are called
'Chhadidaars' (those who hold the stick or chhadi).
The Chhadi is draped with saffron,
red or pink coloured fabrics. The priests give a saffron cloth to every pilgrim
and an oath is taken that each would help the other. However, they are warned
not to share their personal stores of water. This act is deemed to be a sort of
fast and penance necessary for the journey. Pilgrims from all over Pakistan and
even India
visit the temple, holding traditional red banners and wearing red-gold decorative
head-scarves.
Before the independence of India and Pakistan in
1947, the region constituting present-day Pakistan had 14% Hindu and Sikh
population, which fell to 1.6% or about 3 million due to migration of 6 million
Hindus and Sikhs to India. Of these, nearly 2.3 million Hindus, the largest
concentration is in a single district: Tharparkar District (Thar) district
of Sindh Province. They form the largest
contingent of pilgrims to Hinglaj Mata Temple.
They include merchants, government servants, but the
majority are the lower-class Hindus, serving as bonded labourers and farm
workers. The costumes of these folks from rural Pakistan are most colourful.
Their women dress in heavily embroidered clothes with bangles adorning their
wrists. For Thari children employed as bonded labour, this is a one-time fun
time. The pilgrims include middle-class Hindus, especially from nearby Karachi,
which is a stop on the pilgrimage route to Hinglaj.
The pilgrimage serves as meeting point for places and
doing community activity like gathering funds for construction of a Hindu
temple. Hundreds of volunteers help in the organization. Diesel generators are
installed. Vast community kitchens are set up to cook food prepared with tonnes
of food stuff such as wheat flour, rice, lentils, and vegetables supplied by
local people to feed the pilgrims. Three meals are prepared. Temporary bathroom
facilities and camps are installed.
On the path to the shrine are situated wells which are
guarded by the local tribesmen. Feuds over water, a scarce commodity, is common
in the area. The tribesmen are offered food consisting primarily of Roti
(circular flat disks of baked flour) in lieu of water. The pilgrimage continues
for another four to five days after leaving Chandrakup. The final stop is a
small village with wooden houses. It is home to the caretakers of the shrine
and Baluch tribesmen who revere the deity even though they are Muslims. Before
entering the shrine, the pilgrims bathe in the Hingol
River (also called the Aghore River).
The shrine is situated on the mountain on the other bank
of the river. The pilgrims bathe and visit the shrine in their wet clothes. The
annual four-day pilgrimage to the Hinglaj Mata Temple is in April. The major
ceremony in the pilgrimage occurs on the third day, when the priests of the
shrine recite mantras to
invoke the gods to accept the offerings brought by the pilgrims, and bless
them. Offerings made by the pilgrims to the deity primarily consist of
three coconuts. While some remain in Hinglaj for all four days, others
make a short day trip.
The Journey was around 160 miles by foot through the
desert in olden days. The Journey is now made easy by the Makran Coastal Highway connecting
Karachi with Gwadar. Hinglaj is
nearly 4 hours drive from Karachi on the Makran Coastal Highway.
Consequently, the number of pilgrims visiting the shrine has substantially
increased over the years. While most pilgrims come by buses or private cars, a
few cycles their way to the shrine, as it is believed that more the
austerities, the more is the grace of the deity.
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